Waipi'o Valley and the drive through Hilo to Volcano village - pictures later

December 9

Leaving our Hula Girls and their pet ants behind, our route took us east and then north to the lush and beautiful Waipi’o Valley. In the past, the valley was the breadbasket of Hawaii; in earlier times, it was a sacred place reserved for Hawaii’s royalty and priests. Entrance to the valley in those times was by out rigger canoe. After 1830, missionaries and farmers used horses or donkeys to descend the steep grade into Waipi'o.   Now, there is a winding narrow track. It’s a 25% grade and steeper in places.  Although there is some pavement in sections, it’s not classed as a road and vehicles without 4-wheel drive are prohibited. The jeep had a workout in low range for a change, and had more fun fording a few rivers at the bottom. We drove right on through the shallower streams but when one crossing looked to be axle+ deep, we waited for someone else to try it first.


The whole valley was destroyed by tsunami’s in the middle of last century, and now the people who live and farm there are all folks looking to get away from the regular world. The land is loosely divided, rather than owned outright. Think Lasquiti Island moves to Hawaii. Solar power, wood stoves, etc. Semi-wild horses, liberated from their owners by the tsunamis, have formed two loosely divided groups that the locals call Bush ponies and Beach ponies. There is camping down by the beach, a beautiful river runs through to the sea, and the valley is bounded by high, wild cliffs.



Next: on to the tall Akaka Falls, surrounded by jungle, including big banyan trees and tree ferns.

If ever you are driving down highway 19, be sure to stop at Baker Tom’s roadside stand for Malasadas. Mmmm,mmm!! Portugese in origin, they're like big donuts with sweet or savoury fillings. Between malasadas and ukuleles, the Portugese really made their mark on Hawai'i.  Middle-aged Baker Tom is Canadian and lived in Vancouver. He’s quite a character, and chatted on with us…even though he didn’t have his teeth in that day!



We finished our drive through Hilo, stopping only long enough for Michele to buy a Kindle E-reader (on sale that day at Target) and for us to replenish our supplies at Safeway.   Our destination is Volcano Village, just outside Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, and our home for the next 3 nights is Hale Aloha. It’s at 4,000 feet elevation and is set in a rural neighbourhood of lush manicured jungle.

Arriving in the rain, just as it got dark, we were very pleased… a new, beautifully kept home, with all the amenities we could want, set amidst grounds lush with tree ferns and ohi’o trees. The wrap-around upper deck looked great for birding. We were surprised to be so chilly. The portable oil heaters were used to heat our bedrooms and the fire in the big living room hearth kept that area warm….. Yes, fireplace in Hawai’i. The ohi‘a tree is one of the first plants to sprout after a lava field cools down. The wood is very dense, heavy and dark. It burns with high heat and you only have to add a stick every 30 to 45 minutes once it gets going.

Next, hiking in around Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park.